Phuketall - Phuket News

Rites of passage

Young Thai Yai boys become novices in a colourful ceremony that shouldn't be missed, The Poi Sang Long ceremony, the country's most colourful and vibrant novice initiation, returns to the beautiful northern province of Mae Hong Son on March 31.

The traditional novice ordination for members of the Thai Yai hilltribe offers spectators a moving and colourful glimpse of upcountry life that's far removed from the usual sightseeing.

Mae Hong Son municipality and Wat Hua Wiang are hosting the celebration from March 31 to April 3 at the temple in Amphur Muang, which is home to Prachao Plala Kang, the most important Buddha statue for local people.

The Thai Yai believe that young boys who become novices and study the Lord Buddha's teachings bring their parents great merit.

The hosts of the ceremony, as well as other contributors, also gain merit. They're referred to as phor kham mae kham  the father and mother sponsors.

The name of the ordination ceremony combines the Thai Yai words poi, meaning "arrangement", sang (or chao sang), meaning "novices" and long (or along), which means "prince".

Poi Sang Long has become a special festival for Mae Hong Son, which takes great pride in the beautiful Sang Long procession. Only in Mae Hong Son can this Thai Yai tradition be viewed, so it attracts many tourists and meritmakers.

On Wednesday, March 31, the festival opens with the Sang Long receiving day. In the morning the hosts take all the boys to the temple, where they don their costumes as Thai Yai princes  silver belts, curvededge, tubeshaped shirts with floral prints and bright loincloths with fabric at the back folded into a floral petal.

They put their hair up, wrap a piece of silk around their head and decorate it. They also wear facial makeup to emphasise their eyebrows and lips.

After paying homage to the monks and receiving their blessings, the boys climb on the necks of their ta pae sang long, who will carry them on a worshipful round of holy places. They visit the city pillar and its guardian spirit shrine and the governor's shrine, as well as their abbot and senior relatives.

In the procession the novices are shielded by tee kam  gilded umbrellas.

Thursday, April 1, is Hae Khuar Loo Day, when offerings are carried in another procession of novices, among them the monks' "eight necessities", moonshaped bells, the governor's horse, celestial trees, gold and silver candles and shrubs. Many people join in the parade to help carry the offerings.

In the evening there is traditional Thai Yai entertainment to complete with folk songs and peacock dances.

Friday, April 2, is Kam Sang Day, also known as Loo Day, when the novices are formally ordained and the monks given offerings. Afterward there's a party for all of the participants at the temple.

The festival continues through April 3.

The Mae Hong Son Tourism Coordination Centre encourages visitors to get thoroughly involved by becoming a phor kham mae kham for the young boys without one of their own. Just call the Hua Wiang temple at (053) 612 003.

For more information, call the town office at (053) 612 016 or the tourism centre at (053) 612 9823, or visit TravelMaeHongSon.org.

GUIDE TO MAE HONG SON

Mae Hong Song is 800 kilometres from Bangkok and 180km from Chiang Mai, the gateway to the this northwestern province.

Nok Air (www.NokAir.co.th) operates flights between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son.

WHERE TO STAY

Huai Nam Rin Resort

A cosy resort, with a cluster of teak cottages in a lush flowering garden on Jong Kham Road, has accommodation at rates from Bt400 up to Bt5,000 per night. Call (053) 612 8867 or visit www.HuaiNamRin.com.

The Residence

Billed as a "boutique guesthouse", this threestorey, colonialstyled building stands in the heart of town. Prices range from Bt1,200 to Bt1,600 per night. Call (053) 614 100 and (081) 562 6552. Visit www.TheResidenceMHS.com.

Baan Suan Klang Muang

Larger and small wooden cottages in a tropical garden make up this fine resort on Khun Lum Praphas Road. You'll pay Bt400 to Bt500 per night. Call (053) 612 477 and (089) 951 4385.

Baan Kieng Doi

Charming wooden cottages, both big and small, are perched on the hill in Pha Bong, Muang district. Price ranges from Bt700 to Bt3,000 a night. Call (053) 686 065. Visit www.MaeHongSonCity.com/baankiengdoi.

Fern Resort

This ecoandrusticchic resort is outside the city, but offers plenty of countryside beauty with lovely bamboo cottages on stilts in the rice paddies. A single night costs from Bt2,500 to Bt3,000.  Call (053) 680 1101. Visit www.FernResort.info.

WHAT TO EAT

Go local. Mae Hong Son eating culture is dominated by Shan cuisine,which is fuelled by nuts and lots of vegetable. Recommended dishes include Phak Jok, Khao Ngiaw, Khao Sen Ko and some traditional chilli dips. For a sweet treat, look for Pe Mow - Shan rice cake topped with coconut milk.